Clovelly



An introduction to the heritage of Clovelly

The tiny fishing village of Clovelly is secluded, but easy to find. It hangs on a 400ft cliff less than five minutes drive from the A39, the main road from Bideford to Bude. Nine miles west of Bideford is Clovelly Cross and it is here that you turn off the A39 and follow the signs for Clovelly.


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Of course car parks had not been thought of at the time man first made his mark on the area. On the plateau above the village stand Clovelly Dykes - very old earthworks which the Romans probably adapted from an even earlier, perhaps Stone Age, hillfort.

The modern history of Clovelly started with the acquisition of Clovelly Estate by the Hamlyn family in 1738. Since then Hamlyn and Clovelly have been synonymous, with the ownership of the estate still being in the family.

From Elizabethan days, the fishing of herrings was the staple activity and the village prospered on this basis until the shoals began to move away in the 1830's and the season was much shortened.


However, in the middle of the 19th Century Charles Kingsley returned to the village where he had been brought up when his father was rector and inspired by the atmosphere, wrote 'the Water Babies' and 'Westward Ho!' This and the Victorian love of the sea produced a tourism boom and by the end of the century ships were arriving from around the Bristol Channel to land excursionists by small boat onto the pebbled shore.

Clovelly owes its present state of preservation to Christine Hamlyn who dedicated herself to renovating the ancient cottages, often leaving her initials CH and date on the structures. The usual tripper impact of motor traffic and commercialisation simply has not been allowed to enter or spoil Clovelly. The Clovelly Estate Company, which owns all of the buildings in the village and a few thousand acres around it, takes responsibility for all the maintenance and is thus able to ensure that the results are a unique village, standing still in the midst of the 19th century in terms of its buildings and streets (and its donkeys) but with a community of the 21st century.

The village is traffic free and the main street, known very simply as 'up-a-long' and 'down-a-long', tumbles its cobbled way down 400ft of solid rock to the tiny harbour and lifeboat station, both protected by an ancient stone breakwater. It is a descent past flower-strewn cottages, broken only by tempting little passageways and tiny winding lanes that lead off to either side and offer the prospect of discovering even more peaceful, picturesque treasures of Clovelly.

For more information on Clovelly's historic pedigree, visit the village museums, and in addition, the Audio Visual presentation room located in our Visitor Centre.

The Owning Families of Clovelly

 

Each year in this country, about one in seven households move house.  Clovelly provides a vivid contrast, having been associated with only three families since the middle of the 13th century, nearly 800 years.

 

Earlier, at the time of its inclusion in the Domesday Book, it was owned by the King and it enjoyed many royal associations from the 9th century up to 1242 when it was acquired by the Giffard family.  The Giffards were of Norman origin and Walter Giffard came to England as one of Duke William’s closest advisors.  Sir Roger Giffard then “subinfeuded” (sublet) the Manor of Clovelly from Walter and the first recorded rector of Clovelly in 1262 was also a Giffard.

 

The names, Staunton and Mandeville, appear between 1338 and 1362 thanks to marriage to the Giffard daughters, but by 1370, marriage and purchase brought the ownership to one, William Cary.

 

The Carys were one of the great Devon families and cousins of the Grenvilles.  Sir William is perhaps best remembered as, reputedly, the builder of the original pier or breakwater, which is based still on massive boulders slotted together rather than mortared or cemented.

 

His elder brother, Sir John, was a judge and Baron of the Exchequer in 1370, but owing to dynastic intrigues was banished to Ireland and his lands confiscated.

 

His son, Robert, was brought up in William’s household and his fortunes turned when, at a Royal Tournament in 1413, he defeated the Knight Errant of Aragon who had thereto been unconquered throughout Europe.  Robert was immediately knighted by Henry V and his father’s lands restored to him.  The Cary arms to this day include the “three roses argent” of the Aragon Knight.

 

The Carys lived in Clovelly for the next eleven generations and the most remarkable of these are:

 

- William, grandson of Robert, who was captured and beheaded after the Battle of Tewkesbury.  There is a head in an unnamed stone coffin under the North aisle of the parish church, so perhaps …..

 

- William’s son, Robert, is commemorated by a torso of him in the sanctuary of Clovelly Church, in full armour.

 

- Robert’s grandson, George Cary, completed the quay as we see it today.  It cost £2,000, a massive sum in the late 16th century, but this included “divers cellars and warehouses”.

 

- George’s son, William, is the “Will Cary of Clovelly”, made famous in “Westward Ho!” by Charles Kingsley.

- One of William’s sons, George, became Dean of Exeter and the family’s continuing connections with royalty is evidenced by the entertainment of the royal family in his deanery.

 

- Although George had seven children, his grandchildren proved childless, the sons not marrying and the daughters being without child.

 

So in 1738, Robert Barber, the widower of Elizabeth Cary, sold Clovelly to one Zachary Hamlyn.  It is the Hamlyns and their descendants that still own the village and much of the surrounding land.

 

Family History of the present owner of Clovelly, The Hon. John Rous

Zachary Hamlyn, who was born at Kennerland Farm in Higher Clovelly, made his fortune as a lawyer at Lincolns Inn and purchased the estate for £9,438 in 1738.  He died unmarried and left the estate to his nephew, James, on condition he changed his name from Hammett to Hamlyn.  James married Arabella Williams, heiress of the Edwinsford Estate, Carmarthenshire in Wales.  He was created a baronet for public services.

Their son James (2nd Baronet) married Diana (née Whittaker) whose share of her father's fortune was used to improve the estate including the construction of the Hobby Drive.  Work started during the Napoleonic wars assisted, it is said, by French prisoners of war.  It and other coast path carriageways were completed in the period of high unemployment after 1815. 

The 3rd Baronet, also a James Hamlyn, married Mary, daughter of the 1st Earl Fortescue, another distinguished neighbouring West Country family.  They had three daughters.  The eldest, Susan Hester, married Henry Fane of Fulbeck, Lincolnshire.  The family assumed the surname Hamlyn Fane.  Their son, Neville Hamlyn Fane, died in 1884, aged 26.  Constance Hamlyn Fane inherited land at Ringwood, the Avon Tyrrell estate and Christine Hamlyn Fane was given the Clovelly Estate.

In 1889 she married Frederick Gosling.  She requested him firstly to change his name from Gosling to Hamlyn because of the long association of the name Hamlyn with Clovelly and secondly to devote his not inconsiderable fortune to the restoration of all properties on the estate.  As you walk down the village street you will see many with references to C and FH and a date in the 1930's.  This marks the renovation of the building to meet modern day expectations.  The foundations and outer walls are much older.  Christine and Frederick had no children and the estate was left in 1936 to Christine's niece, Betty Asquith.

Betty Asquith was the daughter of Constance Manners (née Hamlyn Fane) and Lord Manners.  Amongst his claims to fame was that he had won a bet that he could in 6 months buy and train and ride a Grand National winner.  This he achieved on Seaman and to this day remains the only peer to have won the Grand National.  Betty's husband, Arthur (son of Prime Minister Asquith) was a distinguished and brave volunteer soldier in the First World War.  He reached the rank of Brigadier General and was awarded the DSO and 2 Bars.  He returned to a business career after the War, but died prematurely in 1939.

Betty and Arthur had four daughters of whom Mary, the eldest, married Keith Rous from the Henham Estate in Suffolk in 1943.  She inherited the estate on Betty's death in 1962.  Her son, John Rous, took over the running of the estate in 1983.

Clovelly Court Gardens
Cottage Tea Rooms
Craft Workshops
Crazy Kate's Cottage
Donkeys
Donkey Souvenirs
Fisherman's Cottage
Groups
Kingsley Museum & Shop
Lifeboat
Methodist Chapel
Mount Pleasant
New Inn
Oberammergau Cottage
Post Office & General Store
Quay
Quay Shop
Queen Victoria Fountain
Red Lion Hotel
St Peter's Chapel
Temple Bar Cottage
The Gallery
The Look-out
Visitor Centre
Waterfall